Papatowai: Old Coach Road & Old Possumers Track

Discovering Papatowai

I was driving through Papatowai in the Catlins recently when I noticed the sign for ‘Beach’ and decided it was worth investigating. After a short walk from my car, the beach view I witnessed was nothing short of epic. The place name Papatowai means where the forest meets the sea, it did, and it was breathtaking. I haven’t seen anything like it before in New Zealand, and I was completely mesmerised.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago.

Tahakopa River, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I wanted to explore the forest before me, but that adventure would wait for another day. As I was driving home I noticed on the north side of the Papatowai bridge a walking track. Bingo.

PART 1: OLD COACH ROAD

The track I saw from my car is called Old Coach Road. It is a historic track and like the name suggests, the road was used to coach people and supplies by horse from boats in the old days. The track is excellent and immediately I was engaged by the surrounding bush.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The Old Coach Road stays close to the edge of the beach. The historic road is wide and an easy meandering walk. I loved the abundance of ferns on the forest floor, and compared with other bush walks I have been on, a lot less chaotic to photograph.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road, Papatowai, Catlins, NZ.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Eventually Old Coach road follows to the edge of the forest and you can see out beyond to the Tahakopa river.

Old Coach Road Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 2: TAHAKOPA BEACH

Emerging out onto Tahakopa beach is a real treat. Looking at how the forest meets the sea is fascinating. I had bumped into a local earlier on the track who told me the marker for Old Possumers track was about three quarters the way down the beach toward the cliffs. So off I went photographing everything!

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

There are plenty of washed up or uprooted tree trunks to compose images with on the beach. The day was overcast, and no light was kicking off but it was still loads of fun. My favourite image from the day is below.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

PART 3: OLD POSSUMERS TRACK

Finding the orange triangle marker for the Old Possumers track requires a bit of careful looking and a small dose of luck. I was climbing up the sand bank along the beach quite a fair bit to take photographs, so it was a nice surprise to accidently stumble across the marker.

Tahakopa Beach, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Once on Old Possumers track it was quickly back down into the bush, but not before I got one more image of these two wind swept trees overlooking the beach.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track is well marked with the orange arrows to guide the way. When I visited 2 large trees had fallen over the path, but apart from those obstacles it was easy to follow.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I thought I would take a couple of detail images of vegetation on the track.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

As always in NZ, follow the orange arrows.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The image below here was taken walking over a swampy bog on an elevated wooden pathway.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

On a very windy day, I’d be tempted to avoid walking Old Possumers track, there are more than a few fallen trees around.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track has been beautifully crafted by the Department of Conservation, down below is an example of a walkway to help you walk through some of the boggy terrain, although be careful not to slip on the logs.

Old Possumers Track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

Old Possumers track, Papatowai, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

I finished the Old Coach Road and Old Possumers track in about 4 hours. However, I spent a long time documenting the journey with my camera. From a photographers perspective this adventure was amazing. There are so many photo opportunities at Papatowai, it really is a dream location. I would say Old Coach Road is achievable for most peoples fitness levels, but the uneven terrain of Old Possumers Track is more suited to sure-footed people who can avoid twisting an ankle with the odd slippery log on the pathway here and there.

In summary this is the best bush walk I have experienced in the Catlins, or anywhere for that matter. I can’t wait to do it again.

Waipohatu walking track and waterfalls

I’m a big fan of the Catlins. As a landscape photographer I feel it offers plenty of locations for interesting photography. I’m not sure I love waterfalls all that much, but, I really enjoy walking through pristine New Zealand native bush. In the case of the Waipohatu walking track, you not only get a lovely bush walk but two waterfalls to photograph. How could I resist.

Getting There

The Waipohatu walking track is located on the way to Curio Bay. Just take a detour toward Slope Point and then drive up Waipohatu Rd when it pops up on your right. I parked up at the picnic spot (with toilet) and started my walk from there.

Trees near where I parked my car on the Waipohatu walking track.

Stage One: A gentle stroll.

The first part of the walk includes the most photogenic bush of the adventure. The walk has been designed to accommodate wheelchair access so is very well constructed. I was very taken with this suspension bridge.

No more than 5 at a time over this suspension bridge.

The pathway was wide and user friendly with lovely large trees lining the route.

Waipohatu walking track.

Stage Two: An uphill slog.

After walking through the easy meandering track you come to a picnic area and then move on to the next part of the track. From this point the track becomes much more challenging. The track has plenty of tree roots, so watch your footing.

Follow the orange arrows on the Waipohatu walking track.

The track follows along a stream and eventually you get to cross it on this rather cool bridge.

After crossing the bridge the track climbs fairly steeply. if you have average fitness you should be fine, but it definitely got my heart rate going.

Stage 3: Waterfalls

After climbing for a while the track eventually flattens out and then dips down again toward the waterfalls. You will come to a juncture where you can go left or right. Both tracks lead to a waterfall. It has to be said that 2 for the price of one is always an attractive deal. I went right to the upper falls first.

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The lower falls are really nice. A bit tricky for navigating the area, but that’s half the fun. I took a couple of images of the waterfall. In one I used the stunning ferns in the foreground to add depth. The image shows the young fronds coming through the centre of the plant creating the beautiful koru shape found in traditional Maori culture.

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ

Waipohatu waterfall, Catlins, Otago, NZ.

The trip out of the bush, was a lot faster as it was downhill for the first part. The DOC signs estimate about 2 hours for the walking, and seemed about right. All in all the Waipohatu walking track is a lovely day out. If you have reasonable fitness and are coordinated enough to navigate an uneven track with sludge and tree roots you should be fine.

Catlins River Track

I was in the waiting room of Mercy Hospital recently and on a coffee table was a book by local artist Murray Ayson. Murray’s paintings of Otago scenes were so beautiful. I was saddened to learn he had only just recently passed away, A few days later I bought a copy of the book from the Art Society in the Dunedin Railway Station. I plan to use it as inspiration for photography adventures in Otago. The first inspired journey from his paintings was the Catlins River walk.

Beautiful steps on the Catlins River walk track.

The journey to the Catlins river walk from Dunedin takes just under 2 hours. Access to the track is via the Tawanui Campsite, so head to Owaka, then depart the Scenic Southern route and take the Owaka Valley road, I got google maps to direct me from there.

I was unaware of heavy rainfall the night before so my visions of a tranquil and relaxing river walk were shattered completely. The river was a muddy and swollen mass, roaring with anger.

Catlins river after heavy rainfall the night before.

Catlins river after heavy rainfall the night before.

I wasn’t keen on gong anywhere near the waters edge as one slip could prove fatal. My river walk would instead need to focus on the rainforest. It was still raining and I was getting a right old soaking. I took an umbrella with me, and used it to cover my camera bag anytime I stopped to take a picture. The track is easy to follow and has some lovely small bridges and steps created to make the journey easier. I couldn’t get over how lush and green everything was. The moss lining the track was the most luminescent green I have ever seen.

Vibrant green moss lined track on the Catlins river.

Vibrant green moss lined track on the Catlins river.

There was so much water about, often the steep pathways had a flow of water, so I would recommend waterproof hiking boots if you take the track on a wet day. I also used a leg of my tripod as a makeshift hiking pole along with the umbrella to help keep me on the track. I am fairly sure this next image of a small waterfall would be nowhere near as impressive on a dry day.

After a night of heavy rain a small tributary on the Catlins river is turned into an impressive waterfall.

After a night of heavy rain a small tributary on the Catlins river is turned into an impressive waterfall.

The highlight of the adventure was seeing giant trees covered in moss. They were like something out of Lord Of The Rings, truely magical. These are the sort of trees photographers dream about, throw in some mist and I’d be a very happy camper.

Moss covered trees on the Catlins river track.

The track crosses the river a few times, but I turned around before I reached the first over-bridge after about 9000 steps as I knew I would be mucking about taking pictures on the way back. It was a real pleasure to be out in some pristine unspoilt rainforest, around every corner there was something new to appreciate.

A sea of ferns just off the Catlins River track.

A sea of ferns just off the Catlins River track.

The Catlins river track is definitely a path I will tread again, as I am curious about seeing how it looks in different seasons. I can highly recommend this adventure to any nature lover, just be prepared for wet weather.

The best waterfall to visit in the Catlins

There are four main waterfalls to visit driving along the Southern Scenic Route in the Catlins area of the South Island. On my visit I unintentionally bypassed Matai falls, so I will need to update this blog at a future date. All of the waterfalls outlined in this blog post are worth a visit, but if I were to pick just one…well read on to find out.

Purakaunui Falls

If you are driving south, Purakaunui falls is the first waterfall you will find after passing through the small township of Owaka. Please note Owaka is probably your best stop for a bite to eat and a coffee before you drive into the wild rainforest area of the Catlins. Purakaunui falls is a short drive off the scenic southern route and there is a large carpark with toilet facilities for visitors. The pathway is extremely well maintained and the walk to the falls takes about 5 minutes. The viewing platform is large and extremely sturdy. I visited the falls at the beginning of Septemeber and there was plenty of water flow to enjoy. Of all the waterfalls this one is probably the most popular so expect to see plenty of other visitors. Purakanui falls is definitely the most ‘chocolate box’ type image you will make on your waterfall odyssey.

Purakaunui Falls.

Purakaunui Falls.

The next waterfall is Matai Falls, however I made the mistake of taking the backroad from Purakauni falls and missed Matai falls completely, so head back the way you arrived if you want to see Matai falls as well.

Mclean Falls

Mclean falls is located at the same turnoff as The Whistling Frog cafe. This is your next chance for a barista coffee and a bite to eat. The Mclean falls track entrance is located off a long winding gravel road and also has toilet facilities. The track is extremely well maintained and the walk to the falls is relatively easy going with a steep ascent to the waterfall viewing area. The Waterfall is impressive and had a great amount of water flow. I’d estimate the walk to take about 30 minutes to the falls and back.

The well constructed pathway of Mclean Falls.

The well constructed pathway of Mclean Falls.

Beautiful moss covered tree branches hang over the pathway to Mclean Falls.

Beautiful moss covered tree branches hang over the pathway to Mclean Falls.

Mclean Falls.

Mclean Falls.

Koropuku Falls

The entrance to Koropuku falls is by the roadside of the Southern Scenic Route, so stay alert as you might drive past it. The waterfall is only a recent attraction. Two local men, Wayne Allen and Peter Hill decided to create a track to this small but charming falls. Over 15 years they worked on the track together and their efforts have not gone amiss as the bush walk to Koropuku falls is truely magical. It is said that they carried in 2000 punga logs to help create the track you walk over. Simply put Koropuku falls does not have the gravel path of the other bigger falls, but it does still maintain a connection to the bush and the track is truely magical.

Hop across these charming stepping stones on the Koropuku falls track.

Hop across these charming stepping stones on the Koropuku falls track.

A beautiful moss covered tree trunk on the Koropuku Track.

A beautiful moss covered tree trunk on the Koropuku Track.

Beautiful punga logs have been laid down on the track for you to walk over.

Beautiful punga logs have been laid down on the track for you to walk over.

Another beautiful rainforest scene from Koropuku falls track

Another beautiful rainforest scene from Koropuku falls track

Here stones have been laid to help make your way along this magical track.

Here stones have been laid to help make your way along this magical track.

Here you have to ‘walk the plank’ to cross the stream not far from the Koropuku falls.

Here you have to ‘walk the plank’ to cross the stream not far from the Koropuku falls.

Koropuku Falls.

Koropuku Falls.

As you have probably guessed by now my favourite waterfall to visit in the Catlins is the Koropuku falls. The workmanship of Wayne and Peter who crafted the track to the falls is gorgeous. It is a track that melds into the surrounding bush and honours the environment. The falls themselves are nowhere near as impressive as Purakaunui or Mclean falls, but the adventure and fun of visiting Koropuku falls is on another level. It is also of note that hardly any tourists know about these falls, so you might get them all to yourself.